Category: Musings

Bonsai and penjing can seem incredibly intimidating when someone first wants to begin. Hearing about trees that have lived for centuries as well as the very idea of growing something as grand and majestic as a tree in a tiny little pot totally intimidated me and kept me away from even trying for quite a long time. The seeming difficulty of growing a tree, one that could live for centuries, is absolutely real. Each bonsai, living inside a small pot that requires a lot of care and attention, takes a long time to grow and be trained, but can then be killed by a lack of care in a matter of days. Nothing is meant to survive, though, and dead trees can be replanted with new living ones. With some diligence, research, and learning, you too can grow your very own bonsai.

And the good news is that growing your own bonsai isn’t terribly difficult, and really only requires a bit of personal discipline to keep them watered correctly and out of danger from extreme temperatures. Trees are naturally resilient. They have developed over millennia to be resistant to a great number of blights and have adapted to thrive in their particular ecosystems. This is why considering the zone of the specific species is important. Be sure to get a tree that will thrive in your particular growing zone. Refer to this map to find out what zone you live in, and select a variety of tree that will thrive in your local climate. This is the top consideration for people who are new to growing, as you can pick something that will naturally do well! Growing trees from other zones will be more difficult and require more attention and care than native varieties.

The tree and the pot you plant it in go together, obviously. I guess you probably figured that much out already. Do keep in mind the size of the tree and the size pot it is in already. You will want a pot that is deep enough to accommodate the root structure. The roots need the soil to hold in moisture and delivery nutrients to the tree, as well as provide support to help keep the tree standing (though you will probably want to also tie it down with bonsai wire). Color of the pot is also a consideration, as you will want to pick out a color that will match any potential blooms and leaves. Drainage holes are also required, so that excess water doesn’t collect and waterlog the roots. Drainage holes are also useful for running strands of bonsai wire for tying down your tree.

I use EB Stone Bonsai soil. It seems to work quite well for my cases, and is a proper bonsai soil that provides adequate drainage. You can use whatever brand you like, but make sure that it is a type that drains well or that, too, could leave to waterlogged roots. Some trees require a specific pH or the tree will die. Be sure to do some research on your tree to see if this is the case and plan accordingly. Personally, I’ve been growing native Pacific Northwest varieties and have not noticed that I need anything too specific. Soil that provides good aeration, drainage, and nutrient retention will help lead to healthy root development, and keep your bonsai thriving for a long time.

Other things you may want to have in your bonsai project include rocks, moss, and miniatures to decorate your scene. Stones help provide that contrast between the living and the non-living, and can give the illusion of mountains in the distance. I also like to sift some bonsai soil to get pure “dirt” to dress the top of my builds, or cover with small bits of bark mulch. Sifting things like your soil and mulch can give you great little “bits” you can use to decorate your project. Moss can be used to give the illusion of grass beneath your tree.

To pot your bonsai, run some wire through the drainage holes to use for tying down your tree. Lay down a thin layer of soil in the bottom of your pot so that the roots are not directly touching the bottom of the pot. Remove your new tree from the grow pot it came in by turning the tree sideways, give the plastic pot a little squeeze, and pull. Typically, the roots will have clumped together and everything will come out in one piece. Use chopsticks or something similar to pick apart the roots and remove the old soil. We want fresh, new soil to cover the roots so that we can be sure they are getting fresh nutrients. Take your time and try not to damage the roots, but you can (and maybe should) give them a slight trim before replanting. From my research, up to a third of the roots can be safely removed.

Stand the tree in the dirt you layered down, and twist the wire around the base of the tree to give it added support. I like to run the wire through the roots under the main trunk of the tree, and twist the two ends together to secure the tree. Trim the ends, and push them down to hide them under the soil. Pack in your bonsai soil around the roots, pressing down firmly to ensure contact with roots. Once filled with soil, give the tree a good soak with your watering can, then press down on the soil one last time and filled in with some more soil if required. Finally, you can add your rocks, moss, and other decorative objects to your bonsai. Make sure to keep your project in shade or sun as required by the variety and water when the soil is starting to get dry. Consequently, during time of rain, go and dump any trays under your bonsai to prevent waterlogging. Planting a new bonsai is quite easy and can be a fun project!

October is here, and soon we’ll be celebrating Samhain, the mid-autumn harvest celebration of the Celts. As the days grow shorter and colder here in the northern hemisphere, those of us above the 45th parallel in particular start to see our precious sunlight reduced to nine hours or less! It’s a season of change, honoring the death that must occur before the rebirth of life in Spring, as well as honoring the ones we’ve known that have passed away. It is a time of reflection and patience, a time when some believe the boundaries between this world and the next are at their most rarefied, and a time to make grand plans for the coming year. It is a time to focus ourselves on other hobbies and crafts, as well as increased meditation and prayer to overcome the inevitable seasonal affective disorder (so, so SAD). 

I often feel sad during this change, as nothing seems to grow, the sun is barely visible, and strong winds and rain make walks and bike rides not as fun as during the spring and summer. But roots are always growing beneath the surface so that hope can one day poke its little head out. During this time, we can grow our own roots through learning about new skills, recipes, and exploring other crafts and activities that bring joy into our lives. Life goes through cycles for all of us, and the Earth has experienced these cycles for eons.

With the coming of winter comes the work of wintering-in the garden to keep the trees and perennials alive through the cold season. Winter is actually great for plants. Annuals have completed their life’s mission by producing seeds, and now begin to die and decay, making way for their successors to grow in their place. Bonsai trees are often either evergreen or deciduous, which means they need to experience the cold temperatures of winter in order to get some much needed rest and be replenished for more growing next spring. Deciduous trees will shed their leaves, carpeting the ground below them with their offerings, while evergreens, true to their name, stay green all year round. Both types of tree, however, still require the rest and relaxation winter offers.

Once again, the best thing about growing in pots is that they can be easily moved. It seems that I move and rearrange my collection at least quarterly if not more often. This time, I will still leave them uncovered to catch the winter rains of the Pacific Northwest, but when temperatures drop low enough to make freezing rain or even snow, I will move them somewhere out of the precipitation so I can help keep the roots protected. My back porch garden area is also fortunate enough to have low walls that I can hide my collection behind so they will be safe from the strong gorge winds that occur during this time of year. Some of these winds are so strong, I’m afraid they may physically rip my trees from their pots.

My large canvas pots, containing my roses Heart of Portland and Honor along with my Alberta Dwarf Spruce that I use as my Yule tree, are easy to take care of in this situation; simply cover the soil in each pot with a few inches of bark mulch to keep them insulated and warm. They will stay on milk crates so that the bottoms of their canvas pots can stay aired out and mold free. I will need to trim the roses back a good bit so they can regrow next year, and my spruce will hopefully continue to heal from the exposure to the heat wave we had during the summer.

I will do the same for my bonsai collection. I plan to use a large plastic tray which I will drill some drainage holes into the bottom. I’ll place the tray on top of milk crates, once again to keep things off the much colder ground and give room for air to move, which will help prevent mold and mildew buildup. The planters will then be completely buried in bark mulch so help insulate them from the cold. Of course this means that all of the little miniatures that I adore must be taken down and kept safe until they too can remerge in the spring. I’m looking forward to making a small scene with the miniatures somewhere in the house. When my model train makes an appearance under the Yule tree, perhaps I will use them to make a small village along the tracks.

Indoors, I keep my plants and bonsai away from any heater vents that would burn my plants to death. I will also adjust the timers on my grow lights to more mimic the loss of sun during the winter season.  Most of my plants outside will remain outside, regardless of the temperature, as I’m afraid the ‘shock’ of moving into a dryer, heated indoor area would hurt them more than the freezing temperatures. Again, I will move them under cover when there is danger of freezing rain or snow so that they are not covered in ice. I do have a couple of perennial flowers, such as a hardy fuschia, that I may bring inside if things get too cold.

I’m not afraid of the coming cold season. Most of my trees were bred for this kind of weather, with many of them being Pacific Northwest varieties or evolved along similar latitudinal lines. As taught to me in the past year, heat is something to worry about more than cold, especially with the mild winters we enjoy here in Oregon. With a little planning, and some work when needed throughout the season, I’m confident my trees will survive the winter.

Now, next summer on the other hand…

Summer is coming to a close, and as a new year is about to begin on the pagan calendar, I’m thinking of what can be done in the coming year to move along my idea of this business, as well as reflect on the lessons learned in the past year. This past year has taught me a lot about both what I want to do in the future, as well as gave me some instruction on how to do it. I also feel that I have grown as a person, becoming more involved in my church community, finding my own spirit, and moving myself toward the sort of person I long to be.

One of the lessons that I learned is that heat is a greater danger to my trees than the frost we experienced last winter. The hot weather must have dried out the soil and roots of the penjing displays, which killed them. I believe that in such a heat wave I need to move them to a more shady area and give them additional watering each day of the heat wave.  

Even though I now fear the heat more than the cold, as winter approaches, I’m planning to move my trees under the small bit of outdoor roofing I have to prevent freezing rain and snow from directly impacting them. I also plan on removing all of my miniatures and burying the planters in Douglas Fir mulch to help hold in some warmth and give additional protection from the freezing elements.

Ultimately, to make the business of my dreams, I would need a rather large piece of land upon which I could build a hoop house to grow my trees under. But to help get there, I need some kind of side business now to help establish those funds. To that end, I want to see what I can do with bonsai sales and designs before I commit to buying land.

Growing more trees from seed will help me have trees that are essentially zero cost. I gather seeds for free around my neighborhood and in various parks through the city of Portland. After my foraging mission last year, I did not have the best luck growing anything from seed. Once again, the seedlings were killed in the heat wave. Still, I need to persevere in this and try again. I’m going to stick to Japanese maples and nut-bearing trees. 

If I can manage to save up a small investment, I could simply buy some bonsai starters and pot them. This would help me build up a small inventory of products I could sell. Once I have a few items to sell, I want to buy a pop-up tent and participate in various farmer’s markets and street fairs. During these sales, I could also promote the idea that I can build custom penjing and bonsai designs for people!

Finally, I want to donate my talents to next year’s church auction. I could start the bidding for my labor at around $60 and inform buyers that they would also be responsible for purchasing the needed pot and tree. I can provide screens, wire, and soil. Also, it would provide my church community with a small amount of cash to help fund operations. This would be a great way of getting my name out to the local community and showcase the sort of work I am capable of producing.